Whilst on holiday recently I was looking through YouTube and these guys came up on my “What To Watch” feed. I subscribed to their channel and took a look at the site and was really impressed by what I saw.
Their main interest seems to be small electric, depron and occasionally FPV models. They review commercial kits from other manufacturers as well as designing and building their own creations. There is an active forum with over 10,000 members and lots of free downloads.
I like their attitude a lot and I can respect the fact that they have taken a hobby and turned it into something of a career. They’ve certainly got me interested again!
Flite Test was created for people passionate about flight. Our hope is to create a show for the people that build and fly planes and helicopters as a hobby. They are the dreamers and engineers that get a thrill from the first launch of a maiden flight. The show will personify the veteran and the beginner alike giving them a chance to share common experiences with others, in turn, enhancing the RC community. The goal is to develop a creative outlet that allows us to work in our passion daily. Flite Test is designed to empower our audience. It has just enough humor, technology and information to appeal to the RC flight crowd as a whole. We hope to entertain, educate and elevate our viewers as we move forward with quality content.
I’ll be keeping an eye on their projects and will post any interesting videos or links here.
Being the accident prone father of two that I am, I am more aware than most of the importance of having a First Aid Kit within easy reach at all times.
We had discussed the inclusion of a First Aid Kit at the field in the past and decided that, whilst too difficult to keep one safely on site, it is a good idea for pilots to ensure they have a suitable kit in their car or their flight kit.
Today I discovered in Bunnings Warehouse (Belmont being my local) that they are selling St John’s Ambulance kits at the front counter for $19.95. This seems to me to be an excellent price for a medium sized, 80 piece kit that will cover all the basics in an emergency.
The one I bought looks much like the one pictured so if you don’t already have a kit in the car, do yourself a favour and go get one.
PS – This post is in no way endorsed or sponsored by Bunnings; I just saw it and thought it was a good deal!
Looking for a bit of inspiration for that next big scale project? At 60 minutes long this is a bit of a viewing commitment but it shows a large proportion of the Shuttleworth Collection in the air, which is something rarely seen these days.
Sit back, relax, and enjoy some of the best examples of vintage aircraft in the existence (then break out the balsa and get cutting!).
This one came up on my YouTube channel feed and caught my eye. Even though it isn’t really all RC (despite the video’s title) it is definitely worth a look, especially 4 or 5 minutes in with the highly detailed control-line bombers.
For the majority of R/C pilots, earning their Bronze Wings and being able to fly their aircraft solo is all that is required for many years of happy aeromodelling. However, if you wish to fly in competition, at shows or be able to teach others to fly then you will be required to pass your Gold Wings.
The Gold Wings is purely a test of flying skills. The manoeuvres required as part of the schedule are included to give the pilot an opportunity to demonstrate more precise control of their aircraft throughout the entire flight envelope. The Gold Wings is not purely a test of aerobatics. For example, if you complete the three rolls by simply throwing in full aileron and completing all 3 rolls inside of 2 seconds then you will probably be asked to do them again – slower and with more control.
If you are thinking about taking your Bronze Wings then you should already know how to fly the required manoeuvres. This guide is intended to give you some tips on how to arrange the schedule and some tips on what your examiner will be looking for:
Outside Figure 8 – Flying along the runway heading perform the figure 8 with the first 90 degree turn away from you. This must be flown with constant rate and altitude turns, balancing all control surfaces for a nice smooth turn.
Inside Figure 8 – Start the manoeuvre on the outfield leg and make the first 90 degree turn in towards you. Keep the circles smooth and constant for best results.
3 Aileron Rolls – Keep them slow and make them last the length of the field. Practice using all controls to keep the rolls axial without losing altitude.
3 Loops – Remember to balance the power and use the ailerons to keep the loops tracking straight.
Immelman Turn – Make sure that your Immelman finishes with the model flying straight and level and does not start descending.
Inverted Flight 5 Seconds – Make sure to keep it straight and level.
Cuban 8 – Both loops should be equal in size and track with the cross over and roll directly in front of the pilot’s box.
Procedure Turn – Like the Figure 8, the turns should be constant and no altitude should be lost.
3 Turn Spin – Best performed into wind and make sure you do the full three turns. Do not be afraid to pull out early if you do not have enough height.
All manoeuvres in the test (except the spin) must be flown twice with each manoeuvre flown both from left to right and right to left. You also need to make a landing circuit in each direction. To pass the Gold Wings you have up to four flights to complete all the required manoeuvres. The ideal though is to complete the test in one or two flights.
Rather than throw your plane into the air and simply try to complete the manoeuvres in any old order. Think of the test as a competition schedule and organise it that way. There is nothing wrong with handing your examiner a bit of paper with the order you will be flying and getting him to act as your ‘caller’. Here is an example of what I mean:
Use the principle of the Aerobatic Box (read this post for more details) the idea is to fly each manoeuvre once one into wind and one downwind. Land after the first schedule is complete and then, if the wind is calm, take off in the opposite direction and perform the schedule again with each manoeuvre flown the other way.
Try this schedule (<<< Wind Direction <<<):
>>> Outside Figure 8 >>>
<<< Inside Figure 8 <<<
>>> Three Aileron Rolls >>>
<<< Three Loops <<<
>>> Inverted Flight 5 Seconds >>>
<<< Cuban 8 <<<
>>> Procedure Turn >>>
<<< Immelman Turn <<<
>>> Three Turn Spin >>>
>>> Landing Circuit >>>
The arrows denote which direction to fly the manoeuvre. Try to make sure there is no ‘messing about’ between manoeuvres – Fly one figure into wind through the ‘box’, turn around and fly the next coming back the other way.
And that’s it! Practice each manoeuvre individually and into wind before putting them together in your routine.
Used in both full-size and model aerobatics, the ‘Box’ is the area in which a pilot performs the schedule. Although compulsory in competition, the box is a useful way to practice your aerobatics in a safe and controlled environment.
Consider the box as a stage where you will perform your show. Before you start to fly decide where you want the box to be and use visual clues on the ground to help orientate you. In the interest of safety when practicing, your box should have it’s lower limit no closer than 100 feet above the ground.
The picture in this post is simply for illustration and the distances given are for full size flying. If you were flying in competition, the box location and size would be decided for you. If practicing you will have to decide for yourself. For example, if I were flying at the LMMAC field I would use the electricity pylon as my centre point and the main east/west runway as the width of the box. I would also use the runway as the front edge and extend to two or three time the pylon height as the upper limit.
When starting out practicing your aerobatics, begin each manoeuvre into wind as this will make the aircraft more responsive to control and the groundspeed slower as you enter the figure. Try to be disciplined and turn around the circuit at the end of each manoeuvre before entering the box into wind again for the next. Of course, if you start flying competition the schedule will require figures to be flown in both directions, but this is for later on!
Using the box to start practicing aerobatics will help to keep you safe and disciplined. If you ever start flying competition it will be second nature to you and you will have a headstart over other newcomers who did not learn this way.
(Thanks to Garth Bingley Pullin for his ‘Park Pilot’ column in Airborne magazine, which made this post so much easier to write)
Once you have passed your bronze wings (and in a lot of cases before) the first thing you want to do is start throwing your model around the sky like a lunatic so that everyone will be impressed by your incredible skills on the sticks.
However, there is a safe way to go about it and a not so safe way – so I thought I should start writing a series of posts on how to improve your aerobatic skills…
Finding a suitable model
Not all models are aerobatic although most can be made to do some manoeuvres, and before you start mentioning Bill Hempel flying 3D freestyle with a 50% Cub on YouTube don’t get your hopes up – but it does prove that anything is aerobatic if you modify it enough.
We can show you ways to improve the performance of your trainer by increasing the throws on your control surfaces and changing the incidence on your wings. This is probably the safest way to go as your trainer will still have some inherent stability that could save some expensive accidents. Once you get more confident you can move on to a more advanced model. I would recommend starting with an advanced low-wing trainer before you refinance the house and get that 2 meter 50cc TOC Extra 260! Things to look for in an advanced trainer include…
Low or mid-mounted wings
Semi-symetrical or symetrical wing section
Larger control surfaces, possibly with a servo on each aileron
Rudder, elevator, aileron, and throttle control
Stick with something that still has a trainer type construction – box type fuselage, built up wings and solid tail feathers – this will make it easier to repair when you have those almost certain mishaps.
Moving onwards and upwards
Once you have the basics of aerobatics mastered and want to move onto something more advanced you need to decide where you want to focus your attention. There are three main types of aerobatics (as defined by competition):
Precision – Popular in Europe, this is highly specialised models flying extremely precise aerobatic figures to a predetermined schedule. Precision aerobatics is not for the faint hearted and takes a lot of practice (and a lot of money) to master.
3D/Freestyle – All the rage at the moment, these are the models that hang around in the air for ever and perform manoeuvres with names like ‘Blender’, ‘Waterfall’, ‘Wall’ and ‘Harrier’. Freestyle rounds in competition are often flown to music.
IMAC – The International Miniature Aerobatics Club is the small version of the IAC. Competition models must be scale in appearance and fly scale type aerobatic manoeuvres. Planes are often large petrol engine powered models.
At the moment the most popular models are those that are either total 3D/Freestyle models or IMAC style scale models. If I was to recommend a model type then it would be a scale IMAC model such as the Extra 260, Yak54, SU26, Extra 330 or Edge 540 as these models are light and strong and can be flown with precision on low rates or 3D with high rates.
A note about size…
There are lots of good models out there and sometimes it can be hard to choose what you want to fly. A lot of people are doing very well flying small foam models such as ‘Shockflyer’ style models or the Multiplex Acromaster. These are fine electric models with good performance in light winds which help build confidence without putting a huge dent in your wallet.
Larger models around the .46 to .60 size are the most popular. They will return a good performance for a pretty good price, and will still fit in the car easily.
More and more people now are turning to larger models with petrol engines. 1/4 scale models with 25cc engines are the smallest seen in competition these days with 50 – 100cc being popular with the experts. The truth of the matter is that – when it comes to advanced aerobatics – bigger models fly better and are easier to lock into the hover. They do however cost a lot of money and you have to ask yourself how confident you would be practicing rolling harriers 6 inches off the deck with the kids college money?!?!
Well that’s it for this post. Next time we’ll start looking at some aerobatic theory so we can begin to practice safely…
I have now put all of my flying lessons for Bronze Wings students onto the site.
These lessons should form a good basis for any model pilot wanting to learn the skills required to be able to pass the bronze wings test. I should be noted however that these lessons are intended as a framework for learning to fly and DO NOT replace the instruction given by one of the clubs qualified instructors.
I have left the comments sections open on the lessons so that anybody who wants to add tips or tricks they have learnt along the way can add them to the bottom.